[Lifestlye] Cornwall in winter is a blast

[BirSaNN]

The county gets famously full in summer, but out of season it comes into its own as the roads quieten and the surf roars on its empty beaches
The empty sands of Sennen Cove sweep invitingly before us – the pristine beach shaded by a spectacular headland at the southwesterly tip of England. It’s a breathtaking spot for a day by the sea. Then the sun breaks through and the whoops of children surfing in the waves add to the atmosphere. The hardcore wetsuited family are the only people in sight, as the temperature remains stubbornly close to zero, with added windchill factor.

It is the first week in January, and we have come for a holiday to the rugged coast of Cornwall. You might ask why. The county is not known for winter holidays, with most tourists and second-home owners descending in their droves during the summer months, cramming themselves into all available cottages and campsites. But holidaying at this time of year offers the kind of peace that we long for after the excesses of December.

And that’s the mindset we travel with, packing enough Christmas toys, games and books to make the most of any enforced downtime, but with the usual beach apparatus, wellies and an enthusiasm for brisk walks that will ensure we don’t waste our time on the stunning coastline.

For the first couple of days, we book into The Old Coastguard, a beautifully renovated Victorian hotel jutting out on the rocks of Mousehole fishing village. We have the family room up in the gods, painted in sunshine yellow with Aztec-style carpet runners and blue-hued furnishings. The room’s bright decor contrasts with the stormy weather, but – unlike in the summer months, where a rainy day can spoil carefully laid plans – we embrace the cosiness of the hotel, throw ourselves at the local arcade and let the children alternate between playing with their remote-control cars on empty beaches and turning their adjoining bedroom into a nightclub with the bedside radio.

We have plenty of peaceful moments to take in the view from the window seat. As the light begins to fade, stormy expanse outside, we head down into the hotel’s dining room, the roaring fire welcoming us into the long, gloomy night that lies ahead.

There are enough guests extending their New Year’s Eve break to make for a pleasant atmosphere, without the elbow-sharpened hustle that can sometimes dictate summer holiday evening meals in busy venues. We load up on plates of fresh hake and a bavette tartare, before wrapping up and heading out into the night to have a look at the po[CENSORED]r Christmas lights in the harbour. Others are doing the same, stopping to admire the large cat or the sea monster peeking out of the water, before ascending up into the village along its steep paths to complete the tour.

Next is a drive on quiet roads to Cove Cottage, overlooking the sugary sands of Sennen Cove. It is during this part of the break, with what feels like one of the UK’s best beaches to ourselves, when the rain backs off and we can really lean into the crisp, clear days.

We join an organised beach clean – all four of us learning how to spot and remove microplastics in the engaging company of Emily Stevenson and her father, Rob, who together founded Beach Guardian. It is impossible to think, as we look across the clear expanse of Sennen beach that we will find any rubbish but, to the children’s delight, we fill buckets with multi-coloured treasure.

link: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2023/feb/21/cornwall-winter-out-of-season-family-holiday-england