Through the silhouette

[Inkriql]

They love fashion. They approach her as others do to other artistic disciplines. José Luis Díez Garde and Marta Blanco study, investigate and propose projects such as The invented body, an exhibition that they have curated hand in hand. "For a long time we had the idea of doing something around the silhouette because it is a little treated topic and we were interested." Based on this analysis, they articulate a sample with 78 unique pieces. "The construction of the silhouette is what defines an era."

Aesthetic Canon The invented body is a journey through the last century through the work of extraordinary fashion designers. "The silhouette is responsible for creating the aesthetic canon, above colors, fabrics or ornaments." Four have been the most relevant silhouettes: the tubular, the triangular, the globular and the anatomical. The curators have contacted different private collectors and museums to gather the designs. “The most exciting thing was when the clothes arrived. It is a privilege to be able to touch them, to be able to see them inside. ” Designs by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli or Jeanne Lanvin coexist with those of Yves Saint Laurent, Sybilla or Commes des Garçons.

Fabric by skin. The exhibition can be visited until December 15 in the Azca Room, inside the Moda Shopping mall. "We address the main lines that have prevailed from the beginning of the last century to the present day and we discussed the body-fashion relationship." From the refined cut of the 20s to the current moment in which the nude dresses. “We also propose that reflection around the tyranny of the visible. Today the fabric is replaced by the skin of our bodies. ”

Relevant women. The tour begins with a design by Jeanne Lanvin for actress Catalina Bárcena. “Throughout the history of the suit, fashion has used influential people to spread. Until the nineteenth century it was the aristocracy who used to have that mission, but at the end of that century this trend begins to change and it is women in the field of culture and entertainment who become fashion prescribers. Next to a specific silhouette there is usually an influential woman legitimizing her. ” In The invented body there are dresses that have worn actresses like Audrey Hepburn, Rita Hayworth, Sophia Loren and Penelope Cruz or singers like Madonna and Lady Gaga.

Original without copy. Lady Gaga's dress that can be seen in The invented body was designed by Leandro Cano. "I certify that it is the original," he says at his side. It is stamped leather and presented in Berlin in 2013, in a parade that applauded Marc Jacobs. The singer put it on to go to David Letterman's show. "The suit is called Priscilla, like my sister." To all his designs he names a woman. After wearing Lady Gaga, the requests multiplied. “I have been offered several times to buy it, but I did not want to sell it. They have also asked us for replicas, but we have never made any. ” He keeps it in his town, Ventas del Barrizal (Jaén). “My grandmother, before she died, left me the house to store my clothes there and to do what I wanted. My grandmother's friends make the whole point there, macrame, crochet… ” They are very proud of the award-winning designer. “Fashion saved me. He was a chubby boy, with glasses and a little weird in a town of 300 inhabitants and everything was a bit difficult. My refuge was to get home and design. ”

Collect and design. In order to put together the exhibition, the curators have contacted collectors such as designer Antonio Velasco. “As a child I bought things on the Trail. I loved buying old corsetry, 50's dresses… I collect designer clothes that inspire me and I admire Bob Mackie. ” His is the dress on display. “I have always been interested in fashion. Since I was a child, when I was in school, I already knew that one day I would do this. ” He designs with his own clothing brand for shows like The Hole Zero and for women like Amanda Lepore. “It has many pieces of mine. It is a true icon and my relationship with her has always been very easy. What he has most are corsets from my workshop. ” Singers like Marta Sánchez, Ana Mena or Agoney have also worn their designs.

Requirement level. Designs by Lorenzo Caprile, Jesús del Pozo or Josep Font are also present in ‘The invented body’. “Selecting the costumes has been a very complicated process,” share the curators, who know as few the funds of the Costume Museum. José Luis is the president of the Association of Friends and Marta the former president. Some pieces come from there, as well as the MUDE of Lisbon and the Fashion Museum of Santiago de Chile. "As we advanced in the exhibition, we went up the level of demand of the pieces." They would like to make a few days of debate. “Fashion is very reviled. It is exhausting to have to always be justifying a serious discourse when fashion is everything. Fashion is a hunger for change, but it is also one of the great tools of capitalism. Fashion helps us to belong to one group, while we separate from another. ”