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The Wonston Arms

aking over a derelict pub is a challenge for anyone, let alone a complete beginner. “I was staggered at how heavy a cask of beer is,” says Matt Todd of his first day in charge of the Wonston Arms. “I picked up a nine-gallon and went: ‘Blimey!’ I picked up an 11-gallon and went: ‘Crikey!’”

That was four years ago, and at that point the idea of the Wonston Arms being named the best pub in the country was as realistic as the village football team winning the Premier League. The pub had been getting shabbier and emptier by the year, and was destined for redevelopment into housing when Todd, then working for Nokia in sales and marketing, had an idea. He would quit his job, he decided, and spend his...

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