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Susy Atkins: what is oloroso sherry and what should I drink it with?


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glass of sherry with a bottle behind

The mere word 'oloroso’ conjures it all up for me: a dark, orange-amber hue and rounded, rich texture, then the gorgeously raisined, toasted-walnut flavours of this finest of sherries, now happily back in vogue.

The word actually means 'fragrant’, and it is, too – the nutty, slightly savoury, dried-fruit perfume of oloroso redolent of autumn. 

Sherries all come from Andalucia in southern Spain, in and around the city of Jerez (the word sherry is a derivative), but they range widely in style and oloroso is nothing like the refreshing, chillable pale finos and manzanillas you may have been sipping on hot summer nights.

This is a sherry that’s been allowed to oxidise, turning deeper in colour, then age in wooden casks. I think it’s the most complex sherry of them all.

Serve oloroso at room temperature, in a normal wine glass. Pour about one-third full then roll the weighty liquid round the bowl to release that wonderful scent.

What to match it with?

That depends on whether you have a sweet or dry oloroso.

The sweeter versions make a decent partner for traditional fruitcakes, ginger cakes and nut treats like pecan pie or praline chocolates.

But most sherry fanciers prefer the dry style (you should see this flagged up somewhere on the label), and take it far more seriously.

Try it with cured and smoked meats, mature hard cheeses, game birds, rich beef and dishes deeply flavoured with mushrooms.

Stock up for the season ahead.

Try these

bottles of oloroso sherry

Don José Oloroso,  Sanchez Romate Great Western Wine, £18.50

A spicy scent and lingering, smooth walnutty flavour mark out this mature, dry oloroso. Sip and savour with chorizo  or salami.

Pedro’s Almacenista Selection Oloroso, Majestic, £13.99, or  £12.59 in a mixed six until 24 October

This dry oloroso, part of the excellent Pedro’s range, is rich with raisins, prunes and roasted nuts.

Solera Jerezana Dry Oloroso, Lustau Waitrose and Telegraph Wine, £9.99

Great value for an impressive sherry with  a fresh streak of orange zest and deeper, satisfying layers of dried fig, sultanas and walnuts.

 

 

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