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ask for a macaroon in 2019 and you will almost certainly be handed a macaron, a diminutive double-disc of light, crisp almond meringue in a shade of brilliant pink (raspberry or rose) or chic grey (liquorice or black sesame). They will be held together by the merest whisper of buttercream and arrive in their own fancy box. Camp as Christmas and sweet as a sugar cube, your little cakes will peep from their beribboned eau de nil coffin like a tiny, yappy dog poking its nose from a Chanel bag.

They do, I suppose, have a certain charm, especially those flavoured with vanilla or pistachio. But if I’m going to indulge in an almond cookie then I’d rather have a “proper” macaroon. The sort that used to come in a paper bag from the cake shop rather than a gift-wrapped box from a patisserie.

 Swapping some of the almonds in macaroons for pistachios gives them a faintly Lebanese air
Plump, soft and carrying a perky almond nipple, the best have a temptingly cracked crust, are crisp outside and softly chewy within. Generously proportioned and heavy with ground almonds, I can only imagine what a macaroon thinks of its twee pastel-coloured namesake.

I made a few batches of my favourites this week, swapping some of the traditional almonds for pistachios, giving them a faintly Lebanese air. We ate some with coffee, then crushed the rest to crumbs and folded them into a white chocolate mousse, to be served in small glasses and eaten with a teaspoon after dinner. They were a doddle to make, too.

Edited by - Dark
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